CLIMBING TITLES

AVIGNON

ROC-1 Bourgogne

EUROPE

FONTAINEBLEAU

HANDBOOK

LEARNING

PORTUGAL

SANDSTONE

Bourgogone-Burgundy

BOUILLAND

This cliff has seen superb development over the past 20 years and is split into about 10 main sectors. (Some with bird restrictions)

The rock on the whole cliff is really variable from superb to absolutely disgusting. You turn the corner to find the biggest heap of tottery limestone on the planet, then turn another corner to see a wonderful sweep of incredibly flat limestone. Some of the long routes are very long and lonely indeed. All of the routes are now included in the guidebook, except the central area of Le Chatelet. For this sector and up to date information, blog, and fun stuff on all of the other sectors, the local free online topo site to visit is www.foudegrimpe.canalblog.com and is very accurate since it is run by the main equippers.

Some of the 7a-7c routes are quite short and almost impossible to grade as they are more Fontainebleau 7a-b style boulder moves, that require intense fingertip strength.

There are a few grotto areas that provide shade even on hot summer days. The cliff keeps out of the sun until a good 3 in the afternoon, so it is superbly cool in the warm summer.

The village itself is very quiet but has a lovely little bar and a nice bistro. There is also a rosette restaraunt in the village if you are feeling very hungry and very, very, rich.

Summary: 300+ routes, mostly 6c and harder - emphasis in the high 7's; up to 50m high.

Photo: CONTES DU PAS CHERCHÉ; Climber: Raphaël Deschamps.

MAP OF CLIFFS

Rochers du Parc

Saussois

Surgy

Vieux-Château

Hauteroche

Saffres

Géligny

Lantenay

Fixin

Brochon

Chambolle-M.

Bouilland

Cormot

Mont Rome-Chât.

Remigny

Saint-Denis

Culles-les-Roches

Vergisson

Solutré

SPONSORS

Jingo Wobbly

Boreal

Au Vieux Campeur

Fun Bloc

Awesome Walls

Burgundy Villas

Edelrid

Rock On