CLIMBING TITLES

AVIGNON

ROC-1 Bourgogne

EUROPE

FONTAINEBLEAU

HANDBOOK

LEARNING

PORTUGAL

SANDSTONE

Bourgogone onsight - Topo Guide

CORMOT

The real classic gem of Burgundy for all climbers. This cliff is a wonderful escarpment running all along a beautiful skyline that overlooks the town of Nolay and down towards the lower wine growing hills of the Rully and Chambolle Musigny regions.

The cliff itself is a formation of some 10 right angled bays, that offer vertical climbing on horizontal breaks. Most of the time you can get good rests on these, but you need to be a 5c-6a leader to really benefit from this.

If you are a 4c-5a climber you will have a great time, but will find the routes quite hard going, and absorbing on the sharp end. Nearly all of the routes are well worth doing and it would provide a good place for a full weeks holiday, year after year. 14 quickdraws can be a help on the longer routes if you are of nervous disposition.

Some of the bays have a bit of loose rock, but this is normally obvious and does not last that long. Some of the routes are outrageously steep for their grade. There is also a small beginners area called Gâteau, which is really handy for a mixed group that don't want to be terrified immediately.

Summary: 180 routes, in all grades 4-7b; up to 35m high.

Photo: CARMEN CRU 6a; Climber: Barbara Bruemmer

MAP OF CLIFFS

Rochers du Parc

Saussois

Surgy

Vieux-Château

Hauteroche

Saffres

Géligny

Lantenay

Fixin

Brochon

Chambolle-M.

Bouilland

Cormot

Mont Rome-Chât.

Remigny

Saint-Denis

Culles-les-Roches

Vergisson

Solutré

SPONSORS

Jingo Wobbly

Boreal

Urban Rock

The North Face

Edelrid

Lyon Equipment

La Sportiva

Five Ten

Peglers

Entre-Prises

Rock On

Open Spaces

Mountain H-Wear

Boreal

Beal