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ROC-1 Bourgogne

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Bourgogone onsight - Topo Guide

FIXIN

This really is one of the major cliffs of the whole of the central Bourgogne and deservedly so. The cliff has all the variety and texture of a classic limestone treasure.

At the very deepest end of the crag it leans out terribly and gives a host of 8a-8c routes that just tower above you. Then the cliff is broken into small bays that are mostly just vertical, but the rock is classical inland limestone. This can be best characterised as flat and not really giving to many holds, none of the pockets of Finale or giant tufas of Thailand. Here you are technically tested to the limit with tiny footholds and not all that obvious moves.

Some of the lower bolts tend to be quite high up (this may change in the years to come), so a clip stick for the first bolt is not a bad idea.

The cliff in not over endowed with lower grade routes, but there are some 80 routes below 6a, so there is plenty of fun to be had here for everyone. In the 6b-7a grades the cliff is fantastic and demanding. It has a south-west aspect and can get hot in summer of course. However there is good shade to be found until 2pm, and after 4pm there are substantial bays that have gone into shade. Definitely one of the premier quality cliffs of France.

Summary: 200+ routes 4-8c with full spread of grades; up to 33m high.

Photo: LA VIEIL IRLANDIS 7a; Climber: Nico Bessenge.

MAP OF CLIFFS

Rochers du Parc

Saussois

Surgy

Vieux-Château

Hauteroche

Saffres

Géligny

Lantenay

Fixin

Brochon

Chambolle-M.

Bouilland

Cormot

Mont Rome-Chât.

Remigny

Saint-Denis

Culles-les-Roches

Vergisson

Solutré

SPONSORS

Jingo Wobbly

Boreal

Urban Rock

The North Face

Edelrid

Lyon Equipment

La Sportiva

Five Ten

Peglers

Entre-Prises

Rock On

Open Spaces

Mountain H-Wear

Boreal

Beal