FRANCE CENTRE

Rochers du Parc

Saussois

Surgy

Lormes
Château Chinon
Morvan-Montal
Rocher du Chien
Gués de Dun
Roche des Fées
Avallon-Cousin

Vieux-Château

Semur-Charrat
Montbard

Hauteroche

Saffres

Géligny

Lantenay

Fleurey
Ahuy

Fixin

Chambolle-M.

Arcenant

Bouilland

Combe à la Vieille
Bouze le Beaune

Cormot

Mont Rome-Chât.

Remigny

Teu-Vaux

Saint-Denis-Vaux

Culles-les-Roches

Cormatin
Berzé la Ville

Vergisson

Parvis

Solutré

Suin

Verosvres

FRANCE ROC - 1 (Centre)

ROCHERS DU PARC

This is the closest important limestone cliff to Paris, yet is far enough away to generally be quiet and not swarmed over at every tick of the clock. At weekends, it can get busy, but the routes are a bit on the challenging side, and consequently repel those with inadequate ability.

The bolting is exceptionally sparse in the lower grades, hence the cliff is definitely not for beginners, or even grade 5 competents. At 6b and above, you will find excellent climbing, but it must be said that at 6c-7a, the cliff really starts to excel with fabulous climbing.

Rarely higher than 25m in height, it certainly packs a lot in, with really technical moves on small pockets. You do need to be good on your feet, since there are a few polished holds, and they ain't on the large side either.

The location next to the river is beautiful, and there are plenty of trees to shade the climber. Upwards of 70 routes in 6a grades and above.

No walk in time, and a lovely campsite nearby - beneath the village of Mailly-le-Château.

Summary: 200 routes, mainly in the grades 6a-8a; up to 25m high.

Photo: CHARLOUSE 7a; Climber: Pascal Coret

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