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ROC-1 Bourgogne

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Bourgogone onsight - Topo Guide

SAFFRES

This has been one of the major cliffs in its day in central France, but thankfully because of the innovation of indoor climbing walls, is not swamped all the time by hundreds of climbers any more. The downside of this decreased popularity, is that the village bar has closed with the loss of custom.

Saffres is a village, and above lies an old limestone quarry with fantastic vertical - challenging walls. There are some 300 routes here, we cover around 30 shorter routes in the lower grades, and around 50 routes in the 6a-7c grades that have good meat and substance - as illustrated in the photo opposite. 28m is the height of the main lower-offs, so you are well sorted in most cases with a 60m rope - and make it a thick one since many of the routes are filled with difficulty.

The rock is pretty gritty and involves some good power to get through the hard bits.

Best described as steep and intimidating, but not really overhanging.

The entire cliff offers superb challenges up to 8b, so anyone should get a lot out here. You can find sun-shade at any time of year - an all year round crag (but chilly in winter).

Summary: 400 routes, mainly in the grades higher grades; up to 50m high.

Photo: D.W.D. 6a; Climber: David Atchison-Jones.

MAP OF CLIFFS

Rochers du Parc

Saussois

Surgy

Vieux-Château

Hauteroche

Saffres

Géligny

Lantenay

Fixin

Brochon

Chambolle-M.

Bouilland

Cormot

Mont Rome-Chât.

Remigny

Saint-Denis

Culles-les-Roches

Vergisson

Solutré

SPONSORS

Jingo Wobbly

Boreal

Urban Rock

The North Face

Edelrid

Lyon Equipment

La Sportiva

Five Ten

Peglers

Entre-Prises

Rock On

Open Spaces

Mountain H-Wear

Boreal

Beal