CLIMBING TITLES

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ROC-1 Bourgogne

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Bourgogone onsight - Topo Guide

SURGY

If you travel along the canal from Saussois, after about 15km you will see Surgy, a cliff just to the North of Clamecy. This is a series of 5 cliffs with very different characteristics each. We cover 2 in our guidebook, and especially give excellent detail for the 'Rombière' cliff that is suitable for all beginners and grade 5 climbers. This cliff faces south and is half in shade from a giant oak tree, and half in the sun. You can climb here all year round.

The main cliff is much larger - a full 40m rope length, and has formidable routes - 6a and upwards. Best suited to those climbing 6c and above. The main cliff faces East, which is a bit awkward - since in the summer it gets afternoon shade, but is so heated up by the morning sun - and above the rather humid canal, that it makes life rather sweaty and uninviting. On a winters morning, an early start is advised, but acts as a real suntrap until midday.

The rock here is much more grainy and rough in texture than Saussois or the Parc.

The general climbing is superb on the good bits, but less good on the smaller parts, and awful on some areas. Of the 200 routes, about half have good merit.

Summary: 350 routes, across all grades; up to 40m high.

Photo: Main cliff at Surgy.

MAP OF CLIFFS

Rochers du Parc

Saussois

Surgy

Vieux-Château

Hauteroche

Saffres

Géligny

Lantenay

Fixin

Brochon

Chambolle-M.

Bouilland

Cormot

Mont Rome-Chât.

Remigny

Saint-Denis

Culles-les-Roches

Vergisson

Solutré

SPONSORS

Jingo Wobbly

Boreal

Urban Rock

The North Face

Edelrid

Lyon Equipment

La Sportiva

Five Ten

Peglers

Entre-Prises

Rock On

Open Spaces

Mountain H-Wear

Boreal

Beal