YONNE & MORVAN

There are 3 very big climbing sectors that tower over the river Yonne (Canal) in parts. These are Rochers du Parc, Saussois and Surgy. They have a full grade selection of routes, but are particularly good in the upper grade ranges. The rock is limestone and is very blank, but there are some pockets. Routes are sustained and generally finger pulling. They are very good in winter and dry very quickly. There is a campsite open all year round below Saussois.

The Morvan is a national park situated further South and contains Granite cliffs. These offer excellent routes in the lower grades, and have a mixture of sun and shade. Most of the cliffs are in the Nievre department, but don't miss out on the cliff of Vieux Chateau which is actually in the Cote d'Or. This area is very good in the hotter months, and has nice lakes to swim in. A great spot to explore

Photo: LA FAUSSE DER 6a (Saussois); Climber: Jean-Paul Avat. RIGHT: LE VIEIL HOMME ET MEMERE 6a (Vieux Chateau), David Atchison-Jones